Haircolor are products that use artificial pigments to change the color of your hair. The end result is a combination of your natural pigments, always warm, with the artificial pigment. Warm refers to the "red," "orange," and "gold/brassiness" you see when hair is lighten. Understanding Color Theory, and Applied Color Theory will allow you to control and predict the end result. There are a couple of things you need to understand when dealing with haircolor.
Types of haircolor There are 4 types of haircolor, temporary, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, and permanent.
- Temporary- Usually found in shampoos, conditioners, hair mascara, hairsprays, mouses, etc. These direct pigments are large and only sit on the surface of the hair shaft. Once hair is shampooed, it washes out. Does not lighten hair. If hair is dark, you will see the color when the light hits the hair. What you see out of the contaner is what you get.
- Semi-permanent- Longer lasting then Temporary. Direct pigments are of different sizes which allow for penetration into the cuticle layer. This give you durability of 8 shampoos. Depending on your hair's porosity and how often you shampoo, it will last longer. Some can become permanent if you hair is very porous, or damaged. The pigments stain, or get stuck in the hair fiber not allowing it to wash out. Semi-permanent haircolor is not mixed with anything, its used directly from the tube or bottle. It adds tone, vibrancy, and shine to hair. Does not lighten hair. What you see out of the container is what you get.
- Demi-permanent- Mixed with something to produce haircolor. It contains direct pigment which we see, and oxidative pigments, we see after it mixes with the developer. Sizes are different that allow for deeper penetration of the hair shaft. Depending on product used, they will lift the hair slightly. It needs to do this in order to make room for the artificial pigments. Lasts 3 to 6 weeks depending on how often you shampoo. Leave slight or no line of demarcation and hair is warmer then before. Used to Color Balance, Glazed, as a Toner, or a Sealer. Used over color treated hair.
- Permanent- Product of choice for maximum grey/white coverage. Lifts 4 to 5 1/2 levels depending on the product used. Hair color has to grow out, leaves line of demarcation. Once your have colored you hair with permanent haircolor, your hair is now color treated. You cannot use haircolor to lift the hair. What this means is that if you apply a dark brown on you natural hair, and a month later, you apply a blonde over it, you will not achieve the desired color blonde. It might make it somewhat lighter, but not the color you want it. Sometimes the color will be much lighter, in that case, the first colors wasn't that dark to begin with and the product used was stronger. In any case, the end result will not be what was expected.
When formulating haircolor for a client, we need to measure the natural hair color first. In order to predict the end result, we used the Level Scale to measure the clients natural hair color level. The Level Scale is as follow: 1-Black(artificial black) 2-Brown Black(natural black) 3 Dark Brown 4-Medium Brown 5-Light Brown 6-Very Light Brown 7-Dark Blonde 8-Medium Blonde 9-Light Blonde 10-Very Light Blonde 11 White. Many companies have there own version of this scale. Usually clients call a dark blonde and light brown. Knowing the Level Scale will allow you to be able to explain what hair color you really want.
Peroxide or Developers
These are terms used to describe the hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) that we use to mix haircolor. The mixing of these chemicals cause two process to happen. The first process removes some of the natural pigment. How much is removed depends on which developer you use. The second develops the haircolor, meaning it changes from noncolor to color, and links together to hold in the hair. With haircolor, you can only lift about 4 to 5 levels. The developers can range from 5Volume to 50Volume. Each brand has there own unique formula, so its best to used the same brand developer as your haircolor.
Single Process Double Process
Single process refers to haircolor that lift and deposits color at the same time. The more deposit, the less lift you get. The more lift, the less deposit you have. Darkers shades have more deposit and less lift, while Lighter shades have more lift and less deposit. As stated before, you can only lift about 4 to 5 levels in a single process. You can only get a golden blonde with a single process. Double process is used when you want to lift more the 4 levels. The first process uses a lightner that lifts, lightens, the hair to the desired level. Once rinsed out, a second haircolor is applied to achieve the color you want. To achieve a pale blonde of any tone, you have to do a double process. Weather you use an all over application or a highlighting technique, its still a double process.
